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Waking badly is a sign of a
heightened startle reflex. The old adage, "Let sleeping dogs
lie," refers to just this issue. Decrease the amount of startling by
calling the dog's name to awaken him. Pat the furniture the dog is
sleeping on to make him aware of your presence. When the dog awakens, give
a treat. Try to create a happy association with being awakened. Gradually
begin sneaking up on a dog who is at rest to give treats. Later on, sneak
up when they are asleep to give treats. When desensitizing the dog to
being awakened, go very slowly and gradually. At any sign of regression,
back up to a previous comfort level.
Get the animal used to being touched when awake, feeding treats as you go.
Then work on increasing his tolerance to being touched when sleeping. Keep
the happy association between, awakening, touching, and treats so the dog
eventually ceases to view being awakened as a bad thing.
We all know that basenjis are not known for their high level of
tolerance. And this can particularly come into play during a vet visit.
Many vets look at basenjis with a wary eye… this breed does have a
tendency to bite when frightened or feeling threatened.
As a good basenji owner, you should have a muzzle. Even if your basenji
is the sweetest in the world, why set them up for possibly biting a human?
Even the sweetest dog of any breed has the potential to bite in a
stressful situation or if injured. A muzzle is also handy when you trim
nails, give baths, or introduce your basenji to other dogs or cats. You
will also need a muzzle if your plan to lure course your basenji.
Muzzles are available in many types, but the most effective and
comfortable is one with a plastic basket. It is very lightweight and your
basenji can breathe easily and drink with it on. The holes are even big
enough that treats can be offered through them.
Once you have your muzzle, you need to train your basenji to it. The
best way is to use it like a "feed bag" Put some treats in it
and let your basenji eat out of it. Slowly progress to slipping the strap
behind the ears and letting your basenji wear the muzzle while eating the
treats out of it. Long skinny treats like jerky can be slid through the
holes in the side. You will be amazed at how quickly your basenji adjusts
to wearing a muzzle when he knows there are treats involved!
Don't wait for your vet to ask you to muzzle your basenji. If there is
any doubt about your basenji accepting the medical procedure, just use the
muzzle, and be prepared to funnel plenty of treats through it. Everyone
will be happy with this scenario!
If your basenji is truly a "monster" at the vet (not
uncommon), you will need to be very prepared. Take plenty of treats! And
keep yourself calm; don't project your nervousness to your basenji. Make
sure your vet is comfortable with working with you and your basenji. If
your vet is intimidated or scared, you will have a very bad experience.
You may want to look for a vet who has special experience with aggressive
dogs, or has attended professional seminars in dealing with aggression.
Also look for a vet who understands the basenji personality-the importance
of approaching slowly and gently. Never allow a vet to use force on your
basenji! Holding the basenji still for a procedure is one thing, but the
basenji should be treated very gently at all times. Never be afraid to
tell your vet that a new handling technique needs to be used or that the
exam is over. If your vet is not receptive to your requests, you need to
take your basenji elsewhere.
Basenjis are high energy, curious, easily bored dogs. This
article is to give you some insight into what needs to be done to make a
home "co-habitable" with a basenji.
Never underestimate a basenji's determination, curiosity or persistence
when it comes to searching out and destroying or rearranging a family's
possessions. The younger the basenji, the more likely there will be
chewing or destruction based on boredom or curio.
Trash and garbage cans are fair game - period. Trash must be
above the reach of a basenji or behind a secured door.
Depending on the dog, toilet paper, boxes of tissues, and stacks of paper
or magazines may be targets. Again, closed doors or high shelves are
the best defense.
Clothing left within tooth reach is vulnerable. Soiled clothing
is more attractive than clean clothing, but the chewing or ripping of
either is a preferred activity. This can extend to throw pillows,
chair cushions or arm, sofa skirts, dishtowels, etc. Good
housekeeping will help considerably in preventing destruction. For
those items which cannot be put away, chairs, sofas, and ottomans, there
are products available which make munching unattractive. Shoes, purses,
belts, back packs, and other leather or "chewable" objects
should stored out of reach of a basenji.
Basenjis enjoy running in the home, an activity referred to as the
Basenji 500. This typically means a track taken which entails
banking off the backs of sofas and rapid travel past furniture. If
you have a valued collection of breakable objects, locate them in a part
of the house not subject to these run-abouts.
Strategies for protecting belongings and furnishings are diverse. The
best defense is crating the dog when it is not being supervised. Products can be applied to surfaces (test first) to make them distasteful
- Bitter Apple, Vicks Vapo-Rub, Mentholatum and any number of home-made
concoctions. When present, humans can squirt water in the dogs face,
laced with a bit of lemon juice or vinegar for those Bs not easily
deterred. Child-proofing products are similarly useful for keeping
cabinet doors closed and gating off "safe" areas of the
house. Automatic door closers are handy if training the humans in
the family is a challenge. One basenji owner tells of running a
dowel rod through her drawer pulls as the dog could open the drawers
individually, but not all at once.
Since most basenjis hate getting wet, bathing them can be a special
challenge! Luckily, our curly-tailed friends are quite good at
keeping themselves clean, so there is no need for frequent baths. Unless your basenji has a "close encounter" with something
extremely dirty or stinky, a bath every other month should suffice during
the warm months, with maybe a couple of baths during the winter.
A lot of people use the bathtub for dog baths. Another choice is the
sink in your kitchen, laundry room, or kennel. Just make sure you
have nice, warm water available, and rubber mats to provide secure footing
for your dog. It's also helpful to have a sprayer hose or some
method of pouring water over your basenji.
If your dog is treat-oriented, you might want to provide a few tasty
morsels to make bath time seem more pleasant. Be sure to reward only
the behavior you want to encourage, such as climbing into the tub
voluntarily or standing nicely while being bathed.
Before placing your dog in the tub or sink, make sure you have everything
ready -- rubber mat in place, water warmed up, shampoo, towel, and
possibly some cotton for plugging the ears. In all events, you'll
want to avoid getting water in your basenji's ears. You might want
to leave a collar on for use in controlling a dog who is likely to
struggle. A mild, good-quality pet shampoo is usually all you will
need. If your basenji has allergies or a skin problem that requires
more frequent bathing or a special shampoo, be sure to follow the advice
of your veterinarian.
When you've finished shampooing, rinse your dog thoroughly. Some
basenjis have sensitive skin that can be irritated by residual shampoo. After rinsing, use a towel to get the dog as dry as possible. Many
basenjis like to do the B-500 after a bath, and they may use the furniture
to rub off excess moisture, in addition to licking themselves dry. Don't use a heat lamp or blow dryer, since these can irritate and dry your
dog's skin. Also avoid letting your basenji get chilled by running
around wet outdoors in cool weather.
Basenjis have turned the act of begging for food into an art form. They
can be very charming and know just how to use that charm to get what they
want. Be warned!
In a perfect world, the begging behavior would have been nipped in the
bud from the start BUT assuming your basenji has already perfected his
craft, there are few things you can do to help break him of this behavior.
· Never feed you basenji scraps from the table. Never! Turn a blind
eye to that pleading gaze and ignore the paw that reaches out to tap you
gently. If you give in just once and feed him a table scrap while you are
sitting at the dinner table, he will continue to beg in the hopes that you
will give in again.
· If you absolutely can't resist and feel you must give your basenji a
treat from the table, make him work for it. Ask him to "sit" and
then reward him by giving him the treat. He has to learn that he doesn't
get something for nothing and that a tilted head and soulful look aren't
going to get him what he wants. Also, don't give him the table scrap while
you are sitting at the table. Walk over to his food dish or into the next
room or hallway and give him the treat there.
· When it's mealtime for the humans, it's crate time for the basenjis.
If you feed your basenji in the evening, make this his mealtime, too.
However, it's important that he knows that the humans are sitting down to
eat first. In packs, the alpha dogs eat first. If you feed your basenji
first and then sit down to eat he may get the idea that he's higher in the
pack order. Put him in his crate and then sit down to eat. He can eat
after the humans have finished. If you find it hard to make him wait then
at least make sure that you sit down to eat for several minutes before
getting up to prepare his meal.
· If you don't want to crate your basenji during mealtime, keep a
water bottle or toy water gun on hand. Each time your basenji jumps up or
scratches at you, give him one quick shot with the water bottle and say
"Off!" or "No beg!" Don't say it in an angry voice but
use a firm, no-nonsense tone. Don't use the word "down" if a
basenji jumps up and puts his front paws on the table. The
"down" command means something completely different in obedience
and if you ever decide to do obedience training with your basenji, you
don't want to confuse him.
· Remember to use the water gun or bottle and do not use your hand to
push your basenji off the table or back from the table. They will
associate bad things with your hands and this may also cause a basenji to
bite. Don't correct him with your hands. You may want to clip a short
leash to his collar during mealtime and if he gets sassy when you try to
correct him, you can take him by the lead and put him outside, in his
crate or in a different room. Some basenjis can get quite aggressive
around food so always keep this in mind when you are teaching them manners
and correcting them.
· You can also designate a "time out" area for your basenji.
This can be his crate or a special pillow or blanket in the corner. When
it's time for the family to eat, you direct him to his time-out area. If
it's not his mealtime you can give him a small rawhide bone to keep him
busy. If you are not comfortable with rawhide you can choose another of
his favorite treats and reward him at intervals throughout your meal. Keep
reinforcing his good behavior. A time-out area is also good when you are
trying to enjoy a snack while sitting on the couch. If he starts to beg,
tell him, "No beg. Go to your bed." or something similar. Make
sure to give him lots of praise when you release him.
Yes, those little cocked heads and furrowed brows are cute, those
whines and yodels are endearing and that little begging dance is
absolutely irresistible but BE STRONG! Keep in mind that behaviors, which
at first seem cute and harmless, can quickly become hindrances to
household harmony and can escalate into full-blown problems. Lay the
foundation for acceptable manners and stick to the rules. Dogs thrive on
consistency and leadership. You are the boss and your basenji needs to
know it at all times, including mealtime.
Basenjis do not respond well to confrontational or disciplinary
training. They do respond well to positive reinforcement and
rewards. Keeping choice food items on hand for purposes of distraction or
enticement is a good idea.
Training your basenji to recognize "treats" or
"cookie" could have life saving rewards for both of you. It can aid in recall if your basenji gets loose or when you need your dog
to "trade" with you. Being able to trade a treat for a
shoe diffuses a possibly ugly situation quickly and easily. Or
tossing a cookie into a crate to entice entry also can prevent conflict.
If the dog is a bolter, calling "treat" from the other side of
the room can give someone time to exit through a door without a
problem. If the dog doesn't like to get down from the warm chair,
offering a treat can make that happen.
It is never wise to over-use such techniques with basenjis and they
figure out what they are "losing" in the deal and make the
decision the treat isn't worth it to them.
Please read these tips and ask your adoption coordinator any
questions you may have about these items and how they apply to your new
basenji. ~~ Expect to be tired for the first few weeks your new
basenji is in your home. Soon you will find you are relaxing and in a
routine. ~~
1. DO keep your basenji safe. Trying to catch an escaped, scared
basenji is nearly impossible. Plan ahead. As soon as your basenji comes
home, practice calling him in the house and each time he comes, give him a
fabulous treat.
Basenjis will bolt through any open doors. Be certain your new basenji
is in your control before opening any doors.
Basenjis will back out of their collars. Make sure your basenji's
collar is fitted properly. It should be buckled tightly enough that you
can just squeeze two fingers under the collar.
If your basenji escapes, chasing it will make it run faster. Several
things to try: run the opposite direction, as he may decide to chase you;
lay down on the ground and roll around or act like you are eating treats.
Your basenji's curiosity may bring him back to see what is going on.
Notify your placement counselor immediately for more guidance.
2. DO remember that it takes FOUR MONTHS for a dog to settle into its
new surroundings. (For a basenji who has been placed multiple times, it
will likely take longer.) Try not to pressure the dog to work with you too
much or expect anything extraordinary from the dog during this time.
3. DO act like you get a new dog in your house every day of the week.
It's no big deal. This is hard because you're nervous yourself, but it's
SO important. If you are nervous and uptight the dog will get nervous and
uptight also. Your confidence will be contagious and help your basenji
realize she has a confident "leader."
4. DON'T touch the dog. LET THE DOG COME TO YOU in its own good time.
When a basenji is in a new environment, the only thing that's familiar
to them is the immediate space around their own body. This space becomes
inviolate to the dog. He may likely feel threatened if you touch him
before he is ready If you drop something next to the dog, either wait for
the dog to move, or, if it's edible, kiss it good-bye.
Avoid making quick movements with your hands or body that might startle
the dog.
5. DO talk to your basenji a LOT. Use your natural voice. Talk to the
dog about anything--just babble meaningfully and go ahead and throw the
dog's name in ever so often. What you are doing is getting the dog used to
your voice and helping it to learn to read your body language. The faster
the dog learns this, the more quickly it can start to settle in, so talk
to it a LOT.
6. DON'T act sympathetic toward the dog. Dogs don't understand
sympathy. The minute your voice gets sympathetic, the dog's immediate
reaction is "Uh oh, something's wrong."
7. DON'T expect ANYTHING extraordinary from the dog. The only thing you
want to do during these first weeks is to show the dog your basic
leadership skills. Just show your "stand tall, self-assurance"
type traits for now. They help the dog understand you know what you're
doing.
8. DO have the dog SIT before you set their meals down by the second or
third day, *if* your dog already knows SIT. If your dog doesn't know SIT,
begin teaching this command in a *sensitive* manner. Do not risk stressing
your basenji by jerking, pushing or over-handling him into a SIT position.
One way to train sit is to simply wait for your dog to SIT then
immediately praise by saying "Good SIT" and offering a treat.
(Carry treats with you in a Ziploc bag).
9. DO feel comfortable about petting your *other* dogs, if you have
them. It's VERY important for them to realize they have not been displaced
and for the new dog to see you interacting in a pleasing way with them.
Watch for tension this might create. If your original dog is feeling
needy, you might give him lots of special attention away out of view of
the new dog.
10. As you are providing attention and cuddles, DO be aware if you are
causing tension between dogs. Ownership or protection of "my"
human can cause disagreements. Calmly leave the area and avoid aligning
yourself with any one dog -- this helps to reduce the stress.
11. DO remove all toys if there is another dog in the home. Let the
dogs adjust to each other before adding the stress of squabbling over
toys. If you can't help yourself, provide toys while the dogs are
individually crated.
12. DO pay personal attention to the dog when they begin to ask for it,
but be cautious. Some basenjis want attention but then revert to fear when
you reach out to them as they're still unsure of your movements and what
they mean. Reach out slowly with your palm up and watch the dog carefully.
If he looks the least bit tentative, stop. Don't jerk your hand back;
just stop your hand wherever it is. If the dog IS tentative, the dog will
turn away. Then you can pull your hand back slowly.
13. DO expect the dog to become a "Velcro dog" the first
weeks. They have been abandoned once and don't want to let you out of
their sight for fear it means they've been abandoned again. Just try not
to fall over the dog if it really sticks close. You can tell how well a
dog is adjusting by when it starts letting you out of its sight and for
how long.
14. Should the dog growl at you for ANY reason, stand (if you aren't
already), turn your back to the dog, and slowly walk away. Should the dog
try to nip you as you're walking away just STOP and stand still, ignoring
the dog completely.
15. Keep a leash or line of some sort-about 3 feet long-- (You could
use cotton clothes line rope dipped in Bitter Apple) attached to her
collar at all times when she's in the house. New basenjis tend to try to
find a place that they can claim as "theirs." It may be an
overstuffed chair, the couch, the bed, etc. You don't want this to happen.
If she growls while she's on any piece of furniture, tell her
"OFF!" and use the line to pull her off. Don't jerk the line,
just pull gently but firmly until she's off. When she is off, then you may
invite her back up if you so desire, but it's important she knows she has
boundaries and limits.
16. Never wake up a basenji by touching or shaking it, unless you know
the basenji very well and the basenji knows you very well. Many basenjis
will awake snapping at whatever woke them. Simply call the dog's name.
When it is awake, return to your normal interaction style. If your dog has
a hearing or vision problem, slightly stomping on the floor to awaken the
dog and to get the dog's attention before touching will help your basenji.
17. If your basenji becomes frightened and hides in a crate, under a
bed or back in some "hiding place", do not reach in and try to
pull the dog out. Wait patiently and let the dog set the pace.
18. Children require the highest degree of supervision when around the
new basenji. Children's play frequently consists of making loud noises and
running, flapping arms, and sometimes waving toys in the air. This type of
behavior may be very frightening to your new basenji.
It is essential that you talk with your children and require that they
not push themselves on the new basenji. If they want to do something, they
may put the basenji's food bowl down for her and they may put treats on
the floor for the basenji to then pick up. Going slowly is the best
policy.
* These tips were originally compiled by Jean Skaggs and
have been modified and enlarged upon by BRAT volunteers
Car rides are inevitable with trips to the Vet and
perhaps to a kennel or a friends house. You should practice car
rides with your dog so you both know what to expect.
Your dog should ALWAYS be restrained in the car. In the event of an
accident, your dog can become a projectile or get loose and you will have
two tragedies rather than one. Restraint can be a crate or a seat
belt or (at the very least) a wire panel between the passengers and the
dog.
Take your dog for short rides to pleasant places as well
as to the Vet or the kennel. It is important that your dog have a
pleasant association with car rides so the feet don't plant and you're
faced with the immovable basenji when it's most important for him or her
to come along.
Basenjis are sighthounds--meaning they have a high drive to chase
moving objects, particularly if the object is furry. This is not good news
for your kitty friend; but with careful planning and good supervision, you
can live in harmony with basenjis and cats.
First and most important, look for a rescue basenji that has a history
of living with cats. Some basenjis will never adapt to living with
cats--why take the risk if you have a choice? In the event that you do
choose to adopt a basenji with an unproven history around cats, you should
be prepared to provide permanent, separate accommodations for your cats. In
some basenjis, the prey drive is simply too high to allow the basenji to
leave the cat alone.
Second, your cat's actions have a lot to do with how your new basenji
will ultimately react. If your cat is spooky and tends to run away from
dogs, your basenji will likely be unable to resist a chase. Considering
the personality of your cat(s) is also important in knowing what the
ultimate relationship between cat and basenji will be.
Prior to bringing your new basenji home, prepare your cat for this
event. Give your cat a room to call its own--a "safe" room--
where the basenji is not welcome. Use of baby gates to create this space is
ideal. Remember that some basenjis will go right over a baby gate, so you
may need to stack two of them... but make sure your cat can still enter
and escape. Also, give your cat some high places to hide. Cats like to be
up high to feel safe and if you prepare and acquaint your cat with these
locations prior to introducing your basenji, your cat will quickly adapt
to seeking these places in the event of a basenji chase. However, make
sure your basenji cannot also get to these high places! Basenjis can
easily jump on a countertop or table. If your cat is older or not too
agile, you might consider a small hole in the door to its "safe"
room or other area where the basenji cannot follow. However, in the event
that your basenji is small and your cat large, this might be a difficult
solution, as the basenji could squeeze through the space behind the cat.
For your basenji's safety, it is wise to trim your cat's claws. Use
small clippers or scissors to remove a portion of the tiny, needle-sharp
tip of the claw. Your cat will still be able to climb and defend itself
with a swat, but the damage will be minimal in the event that a claw
should hit the basenji's eye. A claw to the eye can cause serious damage,
even resulting in the loss of the eye if bad enough.
Another smart move is to create a plan for your basenji to not have
access to the kitty's food or litter box. Yes, basenjis are quite attracted
to litter boxes and will eat the contents if at all possible. You may
simply want to put the litter box in the cat's "safe" room to
begin with, until you know what arrangements will work best.
Introduce your cat to your new basenji by holding the cat on your lap.
This will impress upon the basenji that this is a family pet, not some toy
to chew on. Have another person holding the basenji on leash and gage the
basenji's reaction. Is he bored? On high alert? This will tell you a lot
about how much work you have to do!
Next, let the cat run free, but keep the basenji leashed. Does the cat
run? Does the basenji try to give chase? If your basenji is not overly
assertive towards the cat, allow the basenji to also be free, but dragging
the leash. Allow the cat to be the one to approach, and to dictate how much
contact with which he is comfortable.
If the basenji will not leave the cat alone, it is best to keep them
separated and the basenji leashed. Continue to work through introductions
over the next few days until both are more at ease with another. You may
wish to muzzle your basenji if you sense that the basenji may try to grab
the cat in its teeth.
Once you have gotten through the initial introductions, things should
progress more easily. However, your basenji will probably always be very
tempted to chase your cat, and may wish to play with it more roughly
than the cat would like. Do not leave your basenji alone with your cat
unless you are 100% sure the cat will be safe. Always offering your cat
a safe place to get away from your basenji is a wise idea, no matter how
long the cat and basenji have been together.
Synopsis: In this article I will discuss how to deal with your basenji
when he tries to harass or disobey your children. First I address the
nature of a dog as a pack animal and the personality and inborn traits
that make a dog do this type of thing. The dog is not being bad, he is
only doing what he knows, and it is important to understand where this
is coming from in order to handle it properly. I then give five things
to try, to help teach your dog the proper way to act in your home. I
have organized this in bullet form to make it easier to find any
particular solution technique. The techniques are 1) don't free feed
your dog, make him 'work' for his food, 2) stop allowing the dog to
sleep in the child's bed if it has been, 3) do not play tug-of-war with
the dog if this has been done, and let the child be the one to give and
put away toys 4) allow your child to take the dog on it's potty trips or
anything in the dogs routine that the child can control, and 5) have
your child teach your basenji a new trick that only they two do
together.
It is important to understand that dogs are pack animals and within
this pack there is a hierarchy. Each pack has an 'alpha' or top male and
an alpha female, then each dog takes it's place in concession below
that. No two dogs are at the same 'place' in the pack order. They may be
close to the same place, and therefore possible rivals of each other,
but each has a spot in the pack, and all dogs are happiest when they
know where this is! When a dog lives in a family this is the same. They
will view someone in the family as alpha male, and/ or female and if no
one takes this position, they may try to.
As well every dog has a personality, just like people, there may be
some dogs that are shyer than others, some that are confident, some that
are leaders. It is not important to figure out exactly what your dog is,
but it is important to have an idea. A shy dog will most likely never
vie for alpha, and consequently some dogs will challenge or push the
envelope every chance they get. There are also grays to this scale, and
there can be dogs that are laid back and therefore one may think they
would not want the top dog position, but they can.
Children can often be viewed as one of the pack that is close to the
dog's position, or even under them. The signs for this being the case
can vary from the dog nipping and pestering the child, the dog taking
things away from the child, not listening to the child, and so on. It is
important, first that the parents of the household have established with
the dog that they are top dog. If parents are also having trouble with
the dog then steps need to be taken to re-establish this all important
role before work is done with the children. (The below steps can help
with any family member though.)
Working with a basenji through positive reinforcement is the best way
to attain a good working relationship with your dog. It forms a much
more solid foundation when a dog is praised when it does something good
rather than punished. Punishment is also known as an aversive. The
behavior is avoided or not repeated because the animal wants to avoid
the punishment that it doesn't like. On the other hand, positive
reinforcement makes the your basenji WANT to do things, rather than fear
you, or do the bad things behind your back. Training your basenji, even
just in the basics, is very healthy for him because it lets him know
where he stands AND what is expected of him. A dog will act out if it
doesn't know its station in the pack or if it doesn't understand the
rules. In this article, I will deal with positive reinforcement to
change behavior.
It would be hard for a family to teach a dog that a very small baby is
'over' them in the pack, and one should not attempt to do so. Dogs in a
household should learn to respect the baby and again, be taught the
rules for being around baby. However, for an older child it is important
to make a transition and doing some or all of these things can help.
· Don't free feed your basenji; instead let your child feed the dog
throughout the day (or evening) after he has done something good to
'earn' the food. The food can be put on the counter top and every so
often, be taken out in handfuls for a few minutes of work. If the dog
knows any basic commands then ask it to do these things, then let your
child offer the food. This encourages your Basenji to behave by properly
allowing him to 'think' about how to get you to give him more food. If
your basenji does not know any basic commands now is the time to start.
· If the dog has been sleeping on your child's bed, discontinue this.
If your child really wants the dog in there, take a crate and let it
sleep in the crate, in the child's room. Body language is important to
dogs, it is one of the main ways in which they communicate and to a dog,
when another is physically lower, this is a sign of submission. Also
sleeping on the bed tells your dog that he is on the same level as you.
If there are no problems and the dog has realized where he stands and
has learned that he is allowed to get on the bed after he is invited,
then it is o.k. to resume.
· If the child plays tug-of-war with the dog then discontinue this,
especially if the child looses…..ever. This type of play emboldens a dog
and if he wins, he's better than the looser. This is not the emotion,
nor the message we want to send to our basenji right now. If your
basenji continually tests his boundaries it may be necessary to never
play this game again. Also, put the toys away and let the child give the
dog his toys at playtime, preferably for doing something good, like a
sit, and then let the child put them away where the dog can't get them
when playtime is over. Let the dog see this.
· Allow your child to take the dog on potty trips. This is another
means of controlling the dog and will reinforce the child's status in
the dog's eyes. It may be necessary to supervise this, but allow the
child to do as much as possible, while giving only verbal instructions
if needed, and have the child praise your dog when he's done his
business. Never hold back on praise, feel free to get silly.
· Finally you can allow your child to teach your basenji a trick that
only the child gets to do with the dog. Kids love this because it is
their trick and this, again, teaches the dog who has control. Choose
something easy for the child to carry out and for the dog to learn. It
is best to pick something that the dog is already naturally good at. For
example, if your basenji likes to yodel, then have your child get some
treats, do something to incite the dog to yodel and when he does praise
and treat. A quick praise is best in this case when learning because it
reinforces better. Say 'good' quickly and happily and treat. Do this
several times, every time the dog yodels, pretty soon it will figure out
that the yodel gets a treat. Once it has figured that out, then add a
command. When the yodel comes out, immediately have the child say the
command that you have chosen for this trick. 'Yodel' or 'baru' seem
appropriate. After the command quickly say your praise word and treat.
After 'adding' on this command for a while the dog will learn through
repetition to yodel on command. Viola! Your child and dog have bonded
and worked on their relationship all at the same time. (Don't hesitate
to try something else, and don't get frustrated if your first trick
doesn't work, it's all a matter of finding what the dog will most likely
succeed at and taking advantage of that. AND repetition.)
Children and basenjis can be an entertaining combination or a recipe
for disaster. It is important that parents or caretakers remain dedicated
to teaching children how to respect all animals. Also, the importance of
supervision cannot be stressed enough!
· Never let a child wake a sleeping basenji
· Never let a child approach a basenji from behind and reach for his
tail, etc. Basenjis will often whirl around quickly, sometimes with teeth
bared, to see what has "sneaked" up on them.
· Never let a child tease or taunt a basenji. Basenjis have a low
tolerance for rough treatment. Basenjis don't enjoy being ridden like
horsies, don't think it's fun to have their tails uncurled or their ears
squeezed and pulled and most definitely don't find it amusing to have a
child scream in their faces or run at them with plastic baseball bats,
golf clubs, etc.
· Teaching a child that these things are unacceptable is the first
step, but constant supervision (especially with younger children) is the
key to success. After all, even the best of children may find that curly
tail too hard to resist. If you are supervising, you will be able to see
the behavior and correct it on the spot. Sometimes we all have to
understand that even the greatest children and the greatest dogs act like
what they are: children and dogs. The saying is old but true…an ounce of
prevention is worth a pound of cure!
If a basenji is fearful of the family children (or child), it may be
due to mistreatment or it may just be the basenji's lack of exposure to
children and poor socialization with them.
· Start small. If you have a multiple child family, choose your oldest
child or pick the child who is the calmest and tends to follow directions
well.
· Give your child a few of the basenji's favorite treats (small bits
of cheese, dried liver, hot dogs). Have your child wait outside the room.
· You can put your basenji on a loose leash if you feel you'd like
more control. Sit on the floor in a quiet room and sit your basenji by
your side. Pet him gently and talk to him calmly.
· Call your child into the room and have him approach calmly and talk
to him in a casual calm voice. If you feel your basenji tense, keep
petting him and talking to him in a calm, casual tone. Don't say things
like "It's OK" or use an overly sympathetic tone because this
will send a message to the basenji that he is right to be afraid.
· If your basenji seems overly frightened and distressed, you can ask
your child not to acknowledge him when he enters the room. Instead, she
can come in and talk to you in a casual manner while you continue to pet
your basenji. Basenjis hate to be ignored!
· Have your child sit down on the other side of you so that you are in
between your child and your basenji.
· Continue to talk. If your basenji seems a little interested, let him
approach the child and sniff. You can praise him when he does this.
Chances are, he can smell those treats and he's going to want some.
· Have your child hold out her hand, palm up, and present the treat to
the dog. Praise him lavishly when he takes it.
· Always remind children to approach a dog by holding their hand out,
palm up. Let the dog sniff the hand and if all seems well, the child can
reach down and pet the chest. Never have a child reach their hand out of
the dog's line of vision to pet the head or back of the neck. They will
need to build trust with the dog before this can be done.
· Remind children that it's best not to make direct eye contact with
the basenji while they are getting him over this fear period. Dogs read
direct eye contact as a challenge.
· You may have to repeat the above exercise several times a day and
eventually with all your children. The idea is to let your basenji know
that children are kind and don't mean him any harm.
· Remember, food makes friends so have your children offer him treats
throughout the day. Make these treats tiny though as you don't want to put
weight on your dog by over feeding him.
· Have your children take a positive and active role in the basenji's
care. Children can take turns feeding him, walking him (have the child
accompany the adult and the adult is the one to hold the leash), teaching
him tricks, giving him belly rubs, etc.
· It's important to make sure that all of your basenji's interactions
with children are positive ones.
· If the children are getting rowdy in the house, make sure your
basenji has a safe place of retreat like a crate or his dog bed-somewhere
where he can escape the noise and confusion.
· Constantly remind the children that they can't get too rowdy around
the dog. Sudden noises and movements will either get your basenji riled up
or make him nervous and anxious—wondering if he'll be struck by a
flailing limb or toy, etc.
· When things are improving with the children at home, you can then
start walking him at parks or near playgrounds and get him used to
strangers. Close supervision is advised! If you are not confident about
how your basenji will act around strange children, don't introduce him!
Make sure you feel good about his progress before taking this step. You
can even give neighborhood kids a treat to present to your basenji. He'll
love it!
Keep in mind that it is up to you, as the owner of the basenji, to
ensure that he has good experiences with children. Teaching children to
respect all life is an ongoing process but it can also be a very rewarding
one. Above all else, don't set children or dogs up to fail by leaving them
to interact unsupervised. Proper supervision is the key to success!
The kind of person who likes to brag, "My kids can do anything
to our dog!" should not be allowed to own a dog…especially a
basenji! Basenjis have a much lower tolerance for the rough play and
teasing antics of children. They do not put up with much nonsense before
they will growl, snap or bite. Many biting incidents that involve dogs and
children are caused by children who have mistreated the dog.
Unfortunately, it's usually the dog that gets all the blame.
It is crucial that parents realize their role in teaching children
to respect all animals, not the least of which is the family basenji.
Parents need to remain committed and dedicated to these lessons at all
times.
Regarding a Newborn
· Bringing a new baby home is a huge adjustment for people and animals
alike.
· Do not make the baby's room off limits to the basenji. This may
build resentment as the months pass. He will wonder why that room is so
special and why he can't go in it. Let him examine the room, smell the new
crib, the diapers stacked up, the changing table, etc.
· Try to obtain a recording of an infant crying (perhaps friends who
have a newborn can make a tape for you). Play this on the stereo every
once in awhile. Your basenji may cock his head at first and then ignore it
but it's good to start getting him ready for the new family member.
· While the mother and baby are still in the hospital, the husband or
another family member, should take an article of the baby's clothing home
for the basenji to smell. He may not seem too interested after the first
couple of sniffs but it's still a good idea to do this.
· Upon bringing the infant home, it is very important the basenji not
be completely ignored. He is curious about this tiny new thing and will
want to examine and smell the baby. Let him do this but use your common
sense! Don't put the newborn on the floor and let the basenji do as he
pleases. Hold the baby safely while talking gently to your basenji. When
you keep secrets from a basenji it drives them crazy. Don't make him feel
like you are keeping something important from him.
· Bring a treat home for your basenji the day you bring the newborn
home from the hospital.
· Never shut your basenji away in a different room while you tend to
the baby and then let the basenji out while the baby is in the crib. The
basenji will learn to resent the baby. "Oh, they only have time for
me when that thing isn't around, huh?" Using common sense and good
judgment, make time for both your basenji and your baby at the same time.
If you are feeding your baby, let you basenji sit next to you on the
couch. Make him feel like he is still a loved member of the family.
Regarding Older Children
· Remember, the way a child treats an animal all comes down to
lessons learned (or not learned) from the parents.
· Parents should supervise the basenji-child interactions at all
times. Too many accidents have happened when the parent "just turned
away for a minute."
· Children should be taught to take an active role in the basenji's
daily care. The basenji will learn that the child is higher than him in
pack order and this may help avoid dominance issues in the future.
· Teach children to always approach a dog quietly and never to reach
out right away to grab at the dog. The child should be taught to offer her
hand, palm up, or to stand still while the dog smells her. She can then
speak softly to him and offer him a treat. If she reaches to pet him and
he backs off, tell her to stand still and let the dog approach her again.
· Let your child clip the dogs leash on before he goes on a walk or
have your child put the dog's food bowl down at mealtime. The dog will
associate the child with positive things and this will help build trust
between the basenji and the child.
· A child should be timed out or reprimanded appropriately whenever
she is observed mistreating the basenji in ANY way. You must make the
child understand that mistreatment, teasing, taunting and cruelty will not
be tolerated!! If parents don't agree with this then they should be
reminded that if the importance of respect and kindness to animals isn't
taken seriously now their child might end up paying the price for it later
(if they taunt the wrong dog and get bitten or attacked).
· Teach younger children the importance of ABCD. Ask Before Cuddling
Dogs. Never approach a strange dog without asking the owner's permission.
The relationship between basenjis and children can be an endearing and
rewarding one but it's up to the parents to see that a healthy
relationship flourishes. It's never too late to start instilling values of
respect, kindness and compassion where children and animals are concerned.
And don't forget to supervise!
Synopsis: In this article I will discuss how to deal with your basenji
when he tries to control your children. First I address the nature of a
dog as a pack animal and the personality and inborn traits that make a dog
do this type of thing. The dog is not being bad, he is only doing what he
knows, and it is important to understand where this is coming from in
order to handle it properly. I then give five things to try or change, to
help teach your dog the proper way to act in your home. This is done in
bullet form to make it easier to skip to, or find any particular solution
technique. The techniques are 1) don't free feed your dog, make him 'work'
for his food, 2) stop allowing the dog to sleep in the child's bed if it
has been, 3) do not play tug-of-war with the dog if this has been done,
and let the child be the one to give and put away toys 4) allow your child
to take the dog on it's potty trips or anything in the dogs routine that
the child can control, and 5) have your child teach your basenji a new
trick that only they two do together.
It is important to understand that dogs are pack animals and within
this pack there is a hierarchy. Each pack has an 'alpha' or top male and
an alpha female, then each dog takes it's place in concession below that.
No two dogs are at the same 'place' in the pack order. They may be close
to the same place, and therefore possible rivals of each other, but each
has a spot in the pack, and all dogs are happiest when they know where
this is! When a dog lives in a family this is the same. They will view
someone in the family as alpha male, and/ or female and if no one takes
this position, they may try to.
As well every dog has a personality, just like people, and there may be
some that are shyer than others, some that are confident, some that are
leaders. It is not important to figure out exactly what your dog is, but
it is important to have an idea. A shy dog will most likely never vie for
alpha, and consequently some dogs will challenge or push the envelope
every chance they get. There are also grays to this scale, and there can
be dogs that are laid back and therefore one may think they would not want
the top dog position, but they can.
Children can often be viewed as one of the pack that is close to the
dog's position, or even under them. The signs for this being the case can
vary from the dog nipping and pestering the child, the dog taking things
away from the child, not listening to the child, and so on. It is
important, first that the parents of the household have established with
the dog that they are top dog. If parents are also having trouble with the
dog then steps need to be taken to re-establish this all important role
before work is done with the children. (The below steps can help with any
family member though.)
Working with a basenji through positive reinforcement is the best way
to attain a good working relationship with your dog. It forms a much more
solid foundation when a dog is praised when it does something good rather
than punished. Punishment is also known as an aversive. The behavior is
avoided or not repeated because the animal wants to avoid the thing that
it doesn't like. On the other hand, positive reinforcement makes the your
basenji WANT to do things, rather than fear you, or do the bad things
behind your back. Training your basenji, even just in the basics, is very
healthy for him because it lets him know where he stands AND what is
expected of him. A dog will act out if it doesn't know its station in the
pack or if it doesn't understand the rules. In this article, I will deal
with positive reinforcement to change behavior.
It would be hard for a family to teach a dog that a very small baby is
'over' them in the pack, and one should not attempt to do so. Dogs in a
household should learn to respect the baby and again, be taught the rules
for being around baby. However, for an older child it is important to make
this transition and doing some or all of these things can do it
· Don't free feed your basenji; instead let your child feed the dog
throughout the day (or evening) after he has done something good to 'earn'
the food. The food can be put on the counter top and every so often, be
taken out in handfuls for a few minutes of work. If the dog knows any
basic commands then ask it to do these things, then let your child offer
the food. By being fed, this tells your basenji that your child ate first
and is now allowing him to have his turn. If your basenji does not know
any basic commands now is the time to start. · If the dog has been sleeping on your child's bed, discontinue this. If
your child really wants the dog in there, take a crate and let it sleep in
the crate, in the child's room. Body language is important to dogs, it is
one of the main ways in which they communicate and to a dog, when another
is physically lower, this is a sign of submission. Also sleeping on the
bed tells your dog that he is on the same level as you. If there are no
problems and the dog has realized where he stands and has learned that he
is allowed to get on the bed after he is invited, then it is o.k. to
resume. · If the child plays tug-of-war with the dog then discontinue this,
especially if the child looses…..ever. This type of play emboldens a dog
and if he wins, he's better than the looser. This is not the emotion, nor
the message we want to send to our basenji right now. If your basenji
continually tests his boundaries it may be necessary to never play this
game again. Also, put the toys away and let the child give the dog his
toys at playtime, preferably for doing something good, like a sit, and
then let the child put them away where the dog can't get them when
playtime is over. Let the dog see this. · Allow your child to take the dog on potty trips. This is another means
of controlling the dog and will reinforce the child's status in the dog's
eyes. It may be necessary to supervise this, but allow the child to do as
much as possible, while giving only verbal instructions if needed, and
have the child praise your dog when he's done his business. Never hold
back on praise, feel free to get silly. · Finally you can allow your child to teach your basenji a trick that
only the child gets to do with the dog. Kids love this because it is their
trick and this, again, teaches the dog who has control. Choose something
easy for the child to carry out and for the dog to learn. It is best to
pick something that the dog is already naturally good at. For example, if
your basenji likes to yodel, then have your child get some treats, do
something to incite the dog to yodel and when he does praise and treat. A
quick praise is best in this case when learning because it reinforces
better. Say 'good' quickly and happily and treat. Do this several times,
every time the dog yodels, pretty soon it will figure out that the yodel
gets a treat. Once it has done this, then add a command. When the yodel
comes out, immediately have the child say the command that you have chosen
for this trick. 'Yodel' or 'baru' seem appropriate. After the command
quickly say your praise word and treat. After 'adding' on this command for
a while the dog will learn through repetition to yodel on command. Viola!
Your child and dog have bonded and worked on their relationship all at the
same time. (Don't hesitate to try something else, or don't get frustrated
if your first trick doesn't work, it's all a matter of finding what the
dog will most likely succeed at and taking advantage of that. AND
repetition.)
Being able to crate your dog is an important function. It does
not mean you must crate the dog daily, but it does mean you should be able
to get the dog into a crate without danger to yourself or the dog and that
the dog should be no more than slightly distressed by a short stay in the
crate. If this is not possible, you may need to work with the dog to
alleviate it's phobic reaction to crating.
If your basenji gets upset when it sees a crate, let alone is asked to
enter one, you can be fairly certain you have some desensitization to
do. If your dog enters a crate without too much fuss, and seems only
slightly upset while you are there, but goes bonkers when you leave, you
may be dealing with separation anxiety. These are two separate
issues, be sure you are working on the right one.
To help a dog overcome its distrust or dislike of being crated, you
must make the crate a friendly place for the dog. Place the crate in
a well traveled area of the home and leave the door open. After a
few days, toss a treat into the crate and praise the dog when it retrieves
the treat. Then push the door closed (but not latched) while the dog
is inside retrieving the treat. Praise the dog while it is in the
crate. Next, latch the door for lengthening periods of time. Do not increase the times dramatically or at all if the dog does not
respond well. Return to a level of comfort if the dog is distressed
with any progress.
This may take several weeks and should be consistently done to help the
dog adjust to time in the crate as a normal part of the routine.
A dog who is not well socialized to all types of people as a puppy
may end up fearing or disliking persons of a particular gender, age, or
even appearance (e.g., men with beards or people wearing uniforms). Socialization of an adult dog is somewhat more difficult than it is with a
puppy, but good results can often be achieved with patience and
persistence.
As an example, let's take the case of a female basenji who is
under-socialized with men. Perhaps she growls at or tends to avoid
male members of your household. Or when you take her out for a walk,
she might snap at any man who attempts to approach and pet her.
This is not the kind of problem that can be solved in a few brief training
sessions. It's more likely to require a long period of gradual
desensitization. The idea is to teach this b-girl that especially
wonderful things happen whenever men come around. Reserve a
particular treat (something incredibly yummy) or a favorite toy or game
for use only in this training exercise. The dog should have no
access to this coveted thing under any other circumstances. Then
what happens is this: a man walks into the room, and the dog gets
the treats or plays the game. The man leaves, and the fun thing
stops immediately, not to resume until the man returns. It won't
take long for the dog to make the connection. Good things happen
whenever the man comes around.
There doesn't need to be any interaction between the man and the dog, at
least not at first. Eventually, as the dog becomes more accepting of
his presence, you might want to have the man give treats directly to the
dog. Tasty morsels can be kept near the front door for any strangers
or "scary" visitors to offer to your dog. Even if the dog
refuses to take a treat from someone she is uncomfortable with, it
is still a sign of progress if she can remain relaxed while that person is
in the room—just sitting quietly without running away when the person
moves around.
Another idea is to have the person the dog is afraid of sit still in a
room. Cover the person with special treats and wait for the dog to
approach. The person should not try to interact with the dog—just
allow her to approach at her own pace, when she feels ready to do so. Forcing a dog into frightening situations will only serve to heighten the
fear. You are trying to replace negative experiences with positive
ones. If good things happen when men come around, maybe men aren't
so bad after all.
This brief article is not meant to be a comprehensive solution to the
problem of under-socialization, but it may give you some ideas about how
to structure desensitization exercises to meet your own dog's needs. Training sessions will usually need to be varied and repeated in
different situations. For example, your basenji may learn to feel
comfortable with the man who lives in the house, but still growl at men
she meets in the park. Most dog training is accomplished in a series
of small steps. Once you've met one goal, you can set the next one
and start thinking about how to reach it. With time and patience,
and by taking one step at a time, you will eventually make great progress.
Dogs are territorial and they are protective of that territory. Each dog is different in it's need to protect. Some feel it is the
reason they were born, some feel it's only important with certain threats,
and some leave it to the pack leader - you.
Read "introducing
dogs" to learn how to most effectively bring another dog into
your dog's home. Even if the dog is only going to stay a short time,
it is important to take the time your dog needs to gain a level of comfort
with the invasion of it's territory.
If your dog is being ungracious in welcoming a canine houseguest or new
resident, employ crates to ease the conflict. Separating the dogs
will only prolong the conflict. Each dog assumes victory is theirs
when they are removed from each other's sight and when they come together
again, the battle begins anew. Instead, each dog should be placed in
a crate, facing the other dog for a "time out." The
message you are conveying is that the dogs must get along and both are
responsible for making that happen. Pay no attention to the dogs
while they are crated. You are also communicating that neither dog
gets to enjoy your company until they get along.
If you expect your dog to be a host with any frequency, make certain to
bring visiting canines to your home regularly to practice gracious
behavior and to make the "invasions" as routine as possible.
Should in-home dog aggression be triggered by possessiveness on the part
of your dog, concerning objects, food, sleeping quarters or people, see
the articles specifically written on those topics.
Basenjis tend to be very bold, particularly around other dogs. Gender
aggression is an issue… it's usually impossible to expect your basenji
to be able to get along with others of the same gender. But what if your
normally sweet and docile basenji turns into a growling monster on walks?
Rushes to the end of the leash and challenges every dog he sees?
The reason, very simply, is the leash. A tight leash makes your basenji
feel confined and weak. He feels the need to assert himself with other
dogs he meets. The solution? Keeping the leash loose. This is easier said
than done… your basenji may be straining towards the other dog and
dragging you along behind. But getting that leash loose is very important!
Dig out your basenji treats, and summon your basenji. Do not let him
continue to pull towards the other dog! Stand your ground until your
basenji turns back to you. Have him sit, and give him a treat along with
lots of praise. If you have been working on "Leash pulling"
your basenji will be easier to control and distract with
treats. If not, getting your basenji to turn away and sit might be quite a
chore, but don't give in to him! Stand your ground until your basenji
behaves by sitting nicely.
Once he has demonstrated self control by sitting and receiving his
treat, let him move forward. If he starts to pull again, make him repeat
the sit. Keep the approach under control, with a loose leash at all times.
Additionally, your basenji may be staring and fixated on the other dog.
Use your body to break the tension. Don't pull back on the leash, just
walk in front of your basenji, or turn him and walk the other way. Walking
in circles can do quite a lot to ease the tension. Don't forget to hand
out treats for good behavior! And keep that leash loose.
After a few times through this exercise, your basenji may actually come
to you and sit for a treat when he sees another dog!
Please refer to the "Introductions to other dogs"
article for more information about introducing your basenji to
other dogs.
Good door behavior has several components -- overcoming the tendency
to tear out any open door, allowing people to enter and exit, and learning
not to jump on people who walk in the door.
Bolting
Keep leashes near the door so you can put it on the dog before opening
the door. Your dog will still be able to be with you, but restrained.
One method of training your dog not to bolt is a concentrating on the
mastery of the "sit" command. You can also teach
"wait" as a cue that soon they will be allowed to exit as
opposed to using "stay," which in conventional obedience
training can mean a very long wait.
Leash the dog at the front door and have them sit and wait. Open the
door. Use release words such as "free," "release," or
"you're through" rather than the more common and overused
"OK". Imagine all the times during the day the dog hears the
word "OK" spoken and what might happen if that is also used as
the release word. It could be merely confusing or maybe disastrous.
If the dog stands up to go through without permission, bring her back
inside, have her sit and start the process over again. Once it clicks in
her brain that you decide when she gets to go, and that there is a much
shorter wait when she leaves the choice up to you, it gets much easier.
Vary the time the dog has to wait so she stays focused on you. If you
always say "free" after 3 seconds, the dog will not wait, but
begin going out at what she considers the right time. If the dog
consistently fails to wait a certain time period (say, ten seconds), back
off to a shorter time frame (5 seconds) and gradually work up to the
longer one.
Being consistent in training this behavior may well save the life of
your dog. It will also reinforce your position in the pecking order.
Answering the door
If you don't want your dogs to accompany you to the door, train them to
go to a spot across the room, or to their crates when the doorbell rings
or someone knocks on the door.
On occasions when many people are visiting and the door is always being
opened and closed, the dog may have to be behind a physical barrier. If
you have a hallway entry, a gate can be set up and serve as an "air
lock" to the entry. If the door is open, dogs must be behind the gate
or on a leash. On Halloween, a baby gate right at the front door allows
you to open the door to trick-or-treaters without fearing your basenji
will escape.
Leaving the house without your basenji
Tossing a biscuit or treat away from the door as you open it will
distract the dog and allow you to exit without having the dog bolt.
Jumping on people
Dogs jump on people to get attention. Teach the dog to sit for treats.
Keep treats near the door, but inaccessible to your pet. Provide visitors
with treats to give your dog as they enter. Give the "sit"
command and when your dog complies ask the visitors to give the treat. In
time the dog will associate sitting when someone enters with getting yummy
stuff.
When the dog violates the no jumping rule, ignore him. Do not speak,
pet or acknowledge the dog until he has sat. Any attention at all is a
reward. Once the dog has complied, reward with attention and/or a treat.
Then you can crouch or bend over and give him a chance to smell your
breath - a favorite basenji hobby.
Extremely destructive behavior is one of the common reasons people
give up their basenjis. In order to address this issue before it escalates
or becomes a habit, we strongly urge you to contact a support person to
collaborate/brainstorm.
PLEASE REMEMBER, it may take a number of efforts to resolve this
problem and fine tuning of the approach that will work best for your
basenji.
Dealing with this issue will involve some of the following strategies -
prevention, training or management. A multi-pronged approach is usually
most effective. Training entails teaching the dog a new behavior that will
replace the undesirable behavior, for example, training the dog to chew on
an acceptable object, rather than on the furniture, and to do it
consistently. Management entails making changes in the environment and in
the human's behavior to address the undesirable behavior, for example,
putting distasteful on a surface you don't want the basenji to chew, or
just pulling the blinds up out of your basenji's reach. Prevention, a type
of management - it is highly recommended, and may involve tools to make
supervision easier. Exercise is a good preventative measure that should be
practiced daily.
Most destructive behavior inside the house is related to chewing
furniture/furnishings. Outside, some of the typical destructive behavior
is destruction of lawn furniture, sprinkling systems, and siding on the
house, as well as digging up of the yard in a pattern that seems without
purpose.
To start, it is useful to determine what is prompting the destructive
behavior. Once the events/situations that prompts the behavior are
discovered, you focus on the best strategies to address the behavior.
Common reasons underlying destructive behavior are stress (including
frustration and fear) and boredom. There may be more complex explanations
for the behavior such as "displacement" behavior. (Displacement,
in this situation, involves directing behavior at a nearby object when the
dog cannot reach what it really wants to reach. An example would be
chewing on a chair next to a window, when the dog really wants to get at a
stray dog that has wandered up on the porch).
Some steps to take:
Ensure that your basenji has adequate exercise and stimulation. This will
help with boredom and will contribute to your basenji's sense of well
being.
· Instead of feeding your dog in a bowl, scatter its kibble on the
ground and let it find its food. Or
stuff it in a tricky treat ball, Kong,
or other dog treat dispensing type toy. This takes more energy
than you would imagine. If you have
multiples dogs, you should separate the dogs so they do not fight over
each others food stuffed item. To make it more fun and challenging, hide
the treat and let the dog find it. Use the command "find it". Make it an
easy find at first so your dog is successful. You can make it harder
depending on your dog's problem-solving skills. Give him/her lots of
praise.
· Remember, a tired basenji is a good basenji. Take your basenji for a
walk on leash at least once every day - any outing is better than no
outing. Granted, your slow human pace is not challenging for a basenji,
but the outing itself and the opportunity to sniff, sniff, sniff, will
help your basenji feel more contented when alone. While out on those
walks, take different routes, allow your dog time to get in plenty of
sniffing, and, if possible, try tossing out little treats for your basenji
to "find" while on the walk. He will be very proud of himself.
· Practice various exercises with your basenji as a matter of routine.
Have him "sit" before you put on his leash, before you let him
out the door to the yard, before he gets his meals.
Learn the appropriate use of a crate and umbilical cord. Using these tools
will keep your dog safe, your possessions safe, and will give your basenji
a chance to learn other skills and to mature.
· Most basenjis can be trained rather quickly to be quite content in
their crates during the day while no one is home. Crating coupled with
adequate exercise, plenty of time outside of the crate, a stimulating
crate setting (looking out a window-one with a good view or one where a
bird bath or bird feeder is set up), and wonderful treats in the crate is
humane and effective.
· An umbilical cord is useful while you are home and want to supervise
your basenji. Simply take a leash-a 6-foot leash is good for this-and put
it on your dog. Then run a belt through the handle of the leash and put on
the belt. Now your dog is connected to you and your hands are free. At
first it is a bit awkward, but your dog will quickly learn to follow along
with you as you go about your business and to settle down and chew on a
chew toy while when you are sedentary. When he is chewing appropriately
and settled down, praise him and let him know that what he is doing is
very good.
Modify the environment to minimize risk of damage.
· Limit access, where possible, by using baby gates. -
"Treat" surfaces with deterrents like Vicks (just dibs and dabs,
especially on corners), Bitter Apple, a sprinkling of cayenne powder, or a
paste of water and alum is effective on wood-but only use this paste
outdoors as it is messy.
Use a variety of chew toys. Dogs typically relieve stress by chewing.
Youngsters also chew to relieve the discomfort with teething.
· Do not leave special chew toys lying around. Keep them put up and
bring them out for entertainment time. This will keep them more
interesting to your basenji.
· Go to http://www.kongcompany.com/default.asp . At the bottom of the
home page you will find a link called "How to Use Kong." You
will find a wide variety of fillings to stuff Kongs or other items.
Sterilized shin bones can be stuffed with fillings, as well. Some dogs
really enjoy having these items out of the freezer, so stuff a number of
them and pull them out when needed.
Practice praising your dog for appropriate behavior. Use distraction to
divert them from unacceptable behavior. Do not punish your basenji for
destructive behavior, rather, increase supervision.
Basenjis are typically not a timid breed. But a rescue basenji who has
been denied human contact may become very timid and frightened around
people.
First of all, give the timid basenji plenty of TIME. Time to explore,
to find hiding places, to approach you. You should offer a safe spot-a
crate or other enclosed area to hide. With a safe place always at the
ready, your timid basenji may feel more bold about exploring an becoming
more adventurous.
Other pets might be helpful to your timid basenji. Basenjis are very
smart, and can learn from other basenjis, or even other dogs or cats. Let
your timid basenji see the other pets going on walks, being held in your
lap, etc.
Put your timid basenji on a leash tied to your waist for a period of
time each day. It's tough to do this all day long, but keeping your timid
basenji with you as you go about your household chores will get her
accustomed to being out and about, and being in close contact with you.
Sit on the floor… your timid basenji may see height as a threat or a
measure of alpha status. You may find your timid basenji running from you
when you are standing, but sitting in your lap when you are on the floor.
This is particularly important for men, whose height and deeper voice may
prove more scary to a timid basenji. (See article on "dislikes
certain genders.")
Giving your timid basenji time and making her feel safe will give her
the opportunity to assert herself and feel comfortable in your care.
If this is your first Basenji, here are a few things to help you learn
about your new companion.
Brief History Basenjis originated in Africa and were very important to
the tribesman in that area. The Basenji aided in hunting and flushing game
for their owners and therefore was a significant help and means of
attaining food for their family. Because of this the Basenji was of utmost
importance to his owners, sometimes even fetching a higher price than a
wife. Basenjis often wore a bell made out of a gourd in their native
country in order to be easily located or to flush game. The Basenji also
resembles many drawings of dogs in ancient Egyptian artwork and it is
strongly believed that there is a link in origin here. Many attempts were
made to bring and establish the Basenji in England and they were first
seen at Crufts in 1895. However the breeds foundation stock were recorded
to have been imported in 1936 by Mrs. Olivia Burn. The first Basenjis were
brought to America in 1937 but were not successfully bred until 1940-1941
by Alexander and Mary Phemister. The basenji was recognized by AKC in
1944.
Some of the better-known attributes of the Basenji:
· Barkless
· Independent
· Stubborn
· Escape Artists/
Climbers
And while
this breed is considered 'barkless', they can still make noises - yodels,
chortles, and even screams are among the words used. They can also growl
and whine. Among these things Basenjis can also have the following
characteristics:
· Waking Badly
· Can be Dog Aggressive, especially the
females
· Can be Destructive
· Have a High Prey Drive/ High Instinct to
Chase - considered only "semi-domesticated"
· Aloof with
Strangers
· Do Not Tend to Like Cold Climates Because of Short Coat
· Can
be a Great Thief - food left on the table or countertops can be a big
temptation to a Basenji.
· Bolting if let Off Leash - Because of their
prey drive and independent nature many Basenjis have become victims of
cars on the road!! Take care and be cautious, trying to avoid mishaps
before they occur.
Even so, Basenjis are still wonderful companions and
can be:
· Cuddlers - They like the company of their humans and do not do
well when this is taken from them
· Fastidious - Basenjis clean themselves
like a cat, often using their front paws to do so, but don't tend to like
water. Basenjis will sometimes even try to avoid pottying outside in wet
weather. The will also clean their owners, or any other family members,
especially when wet. Some basenjis will roll on wet bath towels or mats as
well.
· Champion sunbathers
· Curious
Not all basenjis exhibit each of these traits but rather each one has
it's own personality. Take time to get to know your Basenji and enjoy
their unique personalities.
Health Problems: These and more health issues are covered in more depth
in the Health Issues article.
· Fanconi Syndrome - is a hereditary disorder where the kidneys loose
the ability to re-distribute important electrolytes back into the blood
stream. The disease usually starts around the age of four or five but
has been recorded as early as three and as late as eleven years.
Symptoms DO NOT start to occur until later and usually involve increased
consumption of water, and urination. Using a human diabetic test trip
that detects glucose in the urine monthly can help diagnose this disease
early and thus increasing the time and quality of life for the dog. v
PRA - Progressive Retinal Atrophy is a hereditary disease that can cause
blindness. This disease first affects night vision and the dog is not
able to focus or see well in dim light, this is followed by loss of
daytime vision. Often the eyes will look dilated and give off an
increased shine and the lens can begin to show a haze, which becomes a
cataract. PRA can only be detected by an Ophthalmologist using a
specific test.
· IPSID - Immunoproliferative Small
Intestinal Disease can also be referred to as Malabsorption and the
symptoms include diarrhea, loss of appetite and weight loss. Testing to
diagnose this disease is difficult and the owner and attending
veterinarian should be aware of the protocol.
· Hypothyroidism - The
Basenji being described as a 'hyper' or active breed may be linked to its
thyroid function and hypothyroid is a noted decrease in the production of
the thyroid gland. However Basenjis can experience a lower thyroid
production due to even small changes in its environment such as sickness
or a move. It is very important to be sure your Basenji is truly
experiencing hypothyroidism before giving supplements. Giving supplements
when this is not actually the problem can cause the thyroid to stop
producing and thus causing the problem that was not even there to start
with.
And rememeber that we are here as a resource to help with counseling
for any problems or questions that may arise during this crucial
transition time for both you and your new Basenji.
At this point I'm sure you've evaluated your life and life-style and
decided or even already have your first basenji. It is important to work
on and establish the bond that you will have its whole life long. It is
not unusual for some basenjis to take four or more months to adjust to a
new home, and of course, others will adjust faster. Be prepared for the
latter and it won't be discouraging when the progress is slow. You may
also want to visit the articles on House
Training, or any of the subjects that may pertain to your basenji.
While it is important to give your basenji room when she first comes to
your home, it is vital to retain the proper boundaries for her as well.
Allowing them to meet you and explore at their own pace does not mean
overlooking behavior that is not acceptable in your household. BUT
remember, this dog is new to your home, so don't expect her to 'just know'
the rules. For example of your basenji puts her front paws on you for
attention or treats and you do not want to allow this behavior, then don't
scold her, this will only teach fear. The best approach is to move her
front paws off the object while saying 'off'. An even better approach, if
you know your basenji to be a jumper, is to let her drag a leash around
the house. Look for signs that she will jump up and stop them before they
start. Signs could be when new people come to visit, when you come home
from work, when the dog gets too excited. The body will also show that the
dog is ready to jump up on you. Watch your dog and learn to see this body
movement and stop the action before it starts or the exact moment it
starts. This is a highly reinforcing lesson to catch your dog at this
time. When you suspect the dog will jump, just step on the leash right at
the point that it touches the floor. Then when the dog rears up, it is
stopped. Immediately say 'off' in unison with the dog trying to rear. If
you don't want your dog on your furniture then don't let it do this, even
at the beginning when it's easy to be tempted to. If it's going to be the
rule, then make it be from the beginning. It is much harder to train out
something than to train in something.
After enough time for the dog to adjust well enough and gain confidence
then you should start some basic obedience training. If you adopted a
basenji with some of this already trained, hallelujah!, your halfway
there. However, work on these things too because your commands may be
different and it's always good to practice. The more the dog is not used
to a command the more treats and praise you give when a good dead is
performed. Then as the response to the command becomes better and better
you can phase out the amount of treats and praise, but never totally stop.
Always praise even the most reliable commands at least some of the time.
Obedience always helps a dog's confidence if you do it correctly. Lavish
on the praise when they get it right because when the dog knows you are
happy with what he did she becomes happier and more at ease knowing her
place. There are many fun things to do with a dog so when she's completely
adjusted you might want to take an obedience training class. I recommend
clicker-training classes because this focuses on positive reinforcement
and is fun for the dog and the owner. You can even take it further and get
involved in agility, lure coursing, obedience, field trials, flyball,
Frisbee or even freestyle (a dance class with your dog). But at the least
you can teach your dog to be a well-behaved member of society and maybe
even to do a few tricks for your friends.
Socializing is an important function for your Basenji but it is very
important to know when he is ready. Your BRAT counselor can help you with
this. Dogs are a pack animal and are happiest when they are near their
humans. Obedience classes allow the beginning of the socialization
process. I think this is a great beginning because you have the dog on a
leash and while you and your basenji are primarily interacting, the
basenji can sniff and see other dogs. Be aware that sometimes dogs can be
'snarky' or rude and growling when at the end of the leash. This is could
be for several reasons, including the fact that the leash emboldens them
because they know the owner is right there to back them up, or because
they are frustrated that they can't get to the other dog in a way that
pleases them. In any case if your dog does this give out a good, sharp,
low 'NO' and take you basenji away from the dog that it's directing this
at. Go to another dog, perhaps one you know your basenji does not have a
problem with and when she behaves, give her lots of praise. After you feel
comfortable with this you may want to visit an enclosed Dog Park. This is
a great place to socialize your dog and being off leash gives them so much
freedom that they are almost always better behaved with each other, as
always though, there are some exceptions. Dog daycares are also a rapidly
growing business and dogs love this, it also helps owners who have a bit
of guilt for leaving their dogs home all day, five days a week for work.
Many people take their dogs once or twice a week so the dog can have a
change.
During the next few months it is important to try to get to know your
dog. Observe her and learn her limits and her strong points. Praise the
good things she does readily. It can be easy to just be grateful for the
good things, but take it one step further and when you see her lying on
the floor being good or chewing one of her designated toys, tell her what
a good girl she is and give her a treat. If you do this consistently,
reprimands will be necessary less often. Take things slowly, especially
things she might fear. Praise the dickens out of her when she is brave.
For example, my basenji was afraid of kid's bikes and anything that kids
used with wheels. She usually came across them when kids were on them so I
waited until I'd see one lying around without a kid attached. I'd walk her
by it, taking care not to push too far and ignoring her when she backed up
and got nervous, however, one day, after she realized they didn't attack,
she started to approach and sniff, I acted like this was the best thing
she could have ever done. Her confidence grows and now she is approaching
kids more readily. I must add though, that she is still very shy even
after being with me for six months. All I have done in these months is
work slowly to acclimate her to her new home and nothing more. Know the
point at which your dogs fear turns into panic and never take it that far.
Work very closely with your counselor on such issues. Above all, sit back
take it easy and enjoy getting to know your wonderful new family member.
And remember that we are always here for you and your Basenji, no matter
how small the matter. |
