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Fanconi Syndrome
Fanconi syndrome is a disease of the
kidneys which, left untreated, will cause death. When the renal tubes lose
their ability to absorb nutrients (including essential vitamins, minerals,
electrolytes and bicarbonates) and instead excrete them in the urine, the
animal develops acidosis, loses body mass and wastes away. Symptoms of
Fanconi include excessive drinking and urination. Most dogs with Fanconi
become symptomatic between the ages of 5 and 7, but it has been diagnosed
in dogs as young as 3 and as old as 11. Early diagnosis is critical in
extending the dog’s life.
Beginning
at age 3 or earlier, all basenjis should have their urine checked monthly
using test strips for diabetics’ urine glucose testing. Detailed
instructions for urine collection and testing can be found at
http://www.barkless.com/guide/strip.htm.
Positive
diagnosis consists of confirming the presence of glucose in the urine
accompanied by normal blood glucose. Following diagnosis, a venous
blood gas test will be done to determine the appropriate level of
supplementation needed. By following
Dr. Steve Gonto’s Fanconi Protocol,
an afflicted basenji can often live a normal lifespan.
Fanconi
is believed to be hereditary, but no clear inheritance pattern has been
found, so all basenjis must be considered to be at risk. It is estimated
that 10-15% of all basenjis will eventually develop Fanconi.
IPSID
Immunoproliferative
small intestine disease is an inflammatory bowel disease. Symptoms of
IPSID include diarrhea, vomiting, weight loss, and loss of appetite. IPSID
seems to have a strong hereditary component. Food allergies, infections,
and stress are also factors in triggering it. Definitive diagnosis is
usually done by biopsy after other causes have been ruled out. It is
treated with a combination of drug therapy and dietary adjustments.
Eye Diseases
The most common eye disorder in the
basenji breed is Persistent Pupillary Membrane (PPM). When the membrane
that covers a puppy’s eyes before birth is not reabsorbed by the time
the pup is 4 or 5 weeks old, the condition is called PPM. These strands
seldom cause serious vision problems or blindness, except for the very
worst cases.
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)
will cause blindness. It is progressive and most PRA affected dogs
appear normal when young, but begin to suffer from night blindness,
leading inevitably to total blindness. It can be diagnosed by
board-certified veterinary ophthalmologists. There is no treatment.
Thyroid
Problems
In basenjis, hypothyroidism (under-active
thyroid) is the most common form of the disorder. Diagnosis is
reached by having a full thyroid panel done. A low-normal reading in
a basenji should be viewed as unhealthy. Hypothyroidism is fairly
common in the basenji breed and if not treated, can result in many
physical and behavioral problems including, but not limited to, weight
gain, poor coat, aggression, lethargy, mood swings, seizures and chronic
infections. Thyroid panels should be done at regular intervals
throughout the basenji’s life. Thyroid supplementation is
inexpensive, but must be continued for the lifetime of the dog.
Canine
Hip Displasia
CHD is relatively rare but not
unknown in the basenji breed. As a displastic dog ages, the hip joints
become loose causing instability to the joint.
It can cause pain and problems in movement. Diagnosis is by X-ray.
Hemolytic
Anemia
Hemolytic anemia (HA) was once a
serious problem for the breed. It has practically been eliminated through
genetic testing of breeding stock going back to the 1970’s. This
hereditary disease of the red blood cells led to early death in afflicted
dogs. Basenjis with HA seldom live past the age of two.
This is not a definitive discussion
of basenji health issues. There are websites with much more in-depth
information about basenji health at
http://www.basenji.org/?q=node/17.
This article deals in general terms with the
topic of basic house training.
It does not cover problems associated with peeing or pooping after
a basenji has been relatively reliably house trained.
In all instances, it is
recommended that you treat a newly adopted basenji as if he/she is not
house trained and provide the support, supervision, and rewards/praise
used with a pup in basic training.
There are some important principles related to
house training that will serve well to successfully house train a
basenji.
They include:
▪
Successful house training requires a high level of supervision.
Accidents related to house training should never, ever, ever be
punished. The responsibility to
ensure success is really on the humans' shoulders and is carried out by
consistent, attentive supervision.
If a basenji has an accident in the house, improve your supervision;
watch for sniffing.
▪
If you notice your
basenji in the process of pottying in the house, make a sharp sound with
your voice to get your dog’s attention, then lead it outside to finish
pottying.
▪
An umbilical cord is a very useful tool in house training.
An umbilical cord is basically a leash that is worn by your
basenji. Instead of holding the
leash, you run a belt through the handle and you can control your
basenji while keeping your hands free.
This arrangement allows you to keep your basenji nearby and under
supervision while you go about your business.
▪
A comfortable crate is another very useful tool for house
training. Dogs generally will
chose to potty away from the places where they eat and sleep.
Consequently, a crate provides a safe and comfortable resting
place to a well-exercised basenji when your attention cannot be focused
on your basenji. Over-use /abuse of time in a crate can create many,
many problems and will undermine the use of this very useful tool.
▪
Dogs
remember what gets them goodies!!
If they potty appropriately and you praise them lavishly and give them
wonderful treats, they won’t forget.
It is a wonderful way to communicate to your basenji that you like
this pottying outside.
▪
Dogs like a routine. Once
they are on a schedule, they will generally stick with that schedule.
A deviation from that schedule should be noted as it could be a
sign of a problem. *Pay attention/keep a log of when your dog eats and when it
potties.
▪
By using a cue
word/phrase (such as “good potty”) coupled with a treat when your
basenji eliminates, your basenji will learn to potty on cue.
▪
By taking your basenji to the same spot in your yard to potty
during house training, you can establish this habit in your basenji.
This can, however, backfire, when you are traveling with your
basenji who may become very uncomfortable pottying anywhere else.
▪
Dogs almost always sniff, sniff, sniff around for that perfect
spot, before they potty. This
sniffing is distinctive and can serve as a cue to you that it is time to
get your dog to the yard to potty.
Often the sniffing is in a circle.
Pay attention and there will be pay offs in successful house
training.
▪
Dogs are not grazing animals; they are not small cows.
If you leave food out for them to graze on throughout the day and
night (known as “free feeding”), you will create unnecessary problems in
house training. Their digestive
processes, which include elimination, are developed for a life where
they eat a fairly good amount of food at one time (within a couple of
minutes), i.e., they “gorge,” rest briefly, eliminate, and then sleep
for quite a while. This cycle is normal for dogs and contributes to house
training.
▪
Dogs generally have a preferred surface to potty on.
Observing
the type surface your dog prefers to potty on can help you create a
situation that will contribute to your house training efforts.
▪
Cleaning up urine and feces is best done with paper towels and
clean cold water, followed by a light treatment with dishwashing liquid
and more cold water, and a final treatment with an enzymatic cleaner
such as Nature’s Miracle. Most
household cleaners will not accomplish what you want.
They will not eliminate the scent that will bring the dog back to
that spot. The enzymatic
cleaners will.
▪
“Marking” is a behavior done by both males and females.
It is an action that serves a number of functions including
relieving stress from a perceived threat or saying “I have been here.”
Again, it should never be punished.
For the most part, it can be managed much like regular house
training and removing any source of stress.
Marking is characterized by a small squirt of urine rather
than an emptying of the bladder.
When they arrive in a new home, many dogs will mark a few spots
and it will not happen again. Clean it up and go on with the business of house training.
Do not spend time dwelling on this.
Focus on supervision.
This article addresses the
situation where a basenji has been reliably house trained, but that is
no longer the case. This is not
an uncommon occurrence. The
following are some important principles to remember that are key to
successfully addressing this issue.
▪
Do not punish lapses or regression in house training.
While this is a bothersome issue to deal with and can be
perplexing, it is important to approach this issue from a problem-solving
perspective.
▪
Dogs do not change
established behaviors without a reason.
Once the reason for the change in behavior is identified, the
appropriate course of action can be taken.
The first step to take is to describe specifically
what
has occurred/ is occurring. This
will lead you to the reason(s) underlying the change in behavior.
The following examples provide guidance for you on important
aspects of the problem to observe and also offer a few examples of the
different reasons the problem developed.
These examples are not all inclusive.
Examples:
Inadequate description of the new behavior:
“My dog is peeing in the house all the time now and she hasn’t
done that for six months.”
The above description does
not provide enough information to begin identification of underlying
causes of the problem.
More
thorough description of the new behavior:
“It has been six months since
my basenji has peed in the house.
When I am home, she would always let me know she needed to go out
by scratching on the door. When I am gone, I have always left her loose in the house, because
she has never been destructive.
For the past three days I have noticed a pee spot on the carpet.
It is not just a little spot; there is a lot of pee there.
I have a male basenji, but I don’t think he is the one peeing
because the spots are on the floor, not near a piece of furniture as if
he has lifted his leg. I have
only noticed the pee spots if I have been gone for more than two hours,
even though she would regularly “hold” it for much, much longer than
that. I always take her out to
potty before I leave. Otherwise,
she is eating and drinking just fine and she doesn’t seem upset about
anything. This morning I
noticed she was licking herself a lot.
The situation described
above could very well be caused by a bladder infection and requires a
visit to the veterinarian. Other
medical complications that contribute to changes in pottying behaviors are
diabetes, Fanconi syndrome, etc.
Still, another thorough
description of the new behavior:
“It has been months since my basenji has peed house.
Once she learned to use the doggie door, she stopped pottying in
the house completely. In the past
5 days, she seems to have forgotten everything she knew.
Not only is she peeing in the house, she is pooping, too.
This past weekend I began going out with her and that seemed to
have solved the problem, but she doesn’t seem to want to go out by
herself through the doggie door.
When I am home, she always lets me know when she wants to go out—I don’t
have to remind her. She doesn’t seem to be pottying more than normal and she is not
having diarrhea. She
seems to be feeling just fine.”
The situation described
above could stem from a number of problems—primarily based on fear
and/or anxiety. Perhaps something
happened with the doggie door and now she is afraid of it.
Perhaps there are new people or dogs in the adjacent yards that are
worrying her and she only feels secure in the yard with her person
present. Perhaps this basenji was
frightened one day by a hot air balloon passing overhead while she was
alone in the yard (many dogs are terrified of hot air balloons).
Perhaps she went out the doggie door one day and was frightened by
a meter reader. As you can see,
many things could have frightened her.
More questions are called for.
▪
If the problem is not
medical in nature, a behavioral
plan is called for.
Behavioral plans require consistency in their execution and an
understanding that there are likely to be adjustments in the plan.
Observations on how the plan is working are essential.
▪
Remain alert to
changes – Other than medical issues, changes are the main triggers to
changes in pottying behavior
Basenjis tend to have a bit of "attitude" which can make
introductions to new dogs difficult, especially if you are bringing
another dog into your home. However, there are many things you can do to
ease the transition and get things off on the right foot.
Keep in mind that basenjis are gender aggressive. You will have much
more success introducing a male and a female than you will introducing two
dogs of the same gender. Additionally, be very careful if introducing a
basenji to a very small dog that may be seen as prey. For the purposes of
this article, we will be introducing two basenjis--bringing a second
basenji into the home.
First of all, head for neutral ground. Choose a place that neither
basenji will feel the need to protect. If this area includes a fenced
space, all the better. Start by walking both basenjis on leash, each with
a separate human handler. Don't allow them to greet quite yet. Follow a
curving path such as a figure eight, walking towards the other basenji,
then walking away without making contact. Keep leashes loose and distract
as necessary see: Dog Aggression - on leash. As the basenjis pull less and
become bored with one another, allow for closer contact and brief sniffs,
until they are finally face to face.
At this point, you will hopefully be seeing only friendly sniffing;
however, in the event of any growling or aggressive behavior, distract by
walking between them (no hands or pulling on the leash!), then continue
with the walking exercise until you can bring it to a friendlier
conclusion.
If the basenjis are friendly, give them more latitude to interact,
eventually dropping their leashes (letting them drag) so they can freely
be together in the neutral fenced area. (If there is no fenced area, head
to your home yard at this time.) If they have disagreements (and Basenjis
sound REALLY nasty) but you see no evidence of real harm (no blood, no one
clearly dominating the discussion, no real battle) leave them alone. If
things begin to escalate, you may step between them, using your body to
distract them from an intense moment. Do not reach down with your hands.
If you think it's too serious, step on the leashes to stop and separate
them until they calm down. Then try again.
You may notice one basenji trying to mount the other, regardless of
gender. This is a way dogs assert dominance. Allow it, unless it escalates
into a fight. You may also notice other body language such as lip licking
(nervousness) or turning heads away (stay calm, don't confront me) and
yawning (an attempt to calm the other dog).
After 20 minutes or half an hour of this, walk the basenjis to their
home yard together. Let them interact in the home yard for a short time
before bringing them into the house. Make sure all toys and food are
picked up to reduce the possibility of a fight.
Once in the house, continue to let the leashes drag. This is for your
protection as well as the basenjis'. Separating battling basenjis up close
will get you bitten. If things go well, you can shorten the leashes, but
letting them drag a two foot "tab" for the first week is
probably a good idea. You may also wish to consider using
muzzles as a
precaution during this time.
Learn to safely break up any serious fights. NEVER put your hands into
harm's way! Yelling or another sudden, loud noise can often break up a
fight. Try water (a hose), a blanket, a laundry basket. Shaking the treat
jar is always distracting. Be prepared for the possibility of fights, and
have a plan for breaking them up.
Most basenjis are terrible leash pullers! They will drag you right down
the street when you go for a walk. Fortunately, there are many things you
can do to make your walks more pleasant.
The right collar is the first place to look. Many people just assume
that a regular buckle collar is all that is available. However, there are
a wide range of options, and one will be the best choice for your basenji.
▪
We do not recommend that any basenji wear a metal choke chain or
pinch collar. Basenjis pull too hard and as sighthounds can make sudden
movements which could cause permanent tracheal damage if either of these
two collars are used.
▪
Martingale Collar - This is typically made of
flat nylon webbing. The construction allows the collar to tighten firmly
around your basenjis neck, but not choke. This collar will not ease the
pulling during walks, but does provide a great measure of safety against
your basenji being able to slip its head out of the collar.
▪
Head harnesses - The Gentle Leader, in particular, works quite
well with basenjis. When adjusted properly, this head harness will not
slip off, and the mild pressure placed on the nose does wonders to bring
your basenji's pulling under control! Some basenjis will learn to adapt
to the Gentle Leader and will continue to pull, but not with the power
they have with a collar around the neck.
Click here to learn more about Gentle Leaders.
▪
Harness - Like a martingale collar, a harness will
not prevent your basenji from pulling. In fact, a harness might give your
basenji even more leverage to pull harder! However, the harness does take
pressure off the basenji's neck, and in some cases will be a better choice
than a neck collar. Harnesses can be slipped, so be very careful to fit it
properly to your basenji.
▪
Leashes - Flexible leashes are very popular,
but it is very difficult to control your basenji when using one. For the
purposes of teaching proper leash walking, a regular six-foot nylon or
leather leash is recommended. A flexible leash should never be used with a
Gentle Leader.
▪
Easy Walk Harness,
by Premier, and SENSE-ation and SENSE-ible harnesses from Softouch Concepts, are
both innovative harnesses that discourage pulling. The leash is
attached to the harness to a front (chest) ring.
Now that you have the right tools, you are ready to walk! Walks are
very exciting for your basenji. There are so many things to see and smell!
You are at a terrible disadvantage when it comes to control your basenji
on a walk because he can become very distracted, and many of your commands
will fall on deaf ears. The trick is to make yourself more interesting
than things encountered on a walk. Always take along a handful of treats
to use for distraction and praise. Once your basenji knows that you always
have treats, you will be amazed at much more attention is paid you!
The next step is to teach your basenji what you expect from him on
walks. At this point, perhaps all your basenji knows is to drag you from
tree to tree! It's time to teach your basenji that you will only move
forward on a loose leash. Start your walk, and the second there is tension
on the leash, stop walking. The timing of this needs to be immediate! Wait
until your basenji alters his path. For him to loosen the tension on the
lead is not enough. Also wait for him to look back at you, or even better,
move back towards you. The second that happens, start walking again.
Timing is everything!
Your basenji should catch onto this very quickly. However, he will
still slip back into the old habits very quickly! Take the next step by
offering a treat when your basenji turns back to you. This will reinforce
the focus on you and will help your basenji remember that pulling is not
the objective of going on walks.
As you work through this step, you may wish to hold the treat in your
left hand and offer it while you begin moving forward again. The basenji
will take the treat while walking by your left side. This is the first
step to heeling! A very hard thing to teach any basenji. But a treat in
the left hand can be a great motivator. Use the heel command and ask for a
sit when you stop.
As your basenji comes to realize that staying near you, paying
attention to you, and walking nicely by your left side means a treat, you
will be surprised to see your basenji beginning to do these things on his
own! But don't expect perfection. After all, this walk is for your
basenji, right? It is his exercise and his fun time to explore the world.
Allow for plenty of sniffing and exploring… remember to let your basenji
have fun!
It's never a good idea to allow your basenji to put his teeth on your
skin… even if it seems to be in play and good fun. A basenji that is
accustomed to being allowed to do this will be much more apt to bite in
anger, because it is comfortable with communicating with you via its
teeth.
Many basenjis, particularly puppies, do like to bite humans in play.
Often they will chew on your hands or even take your arm in their teeth.
Getting silly during play, they may jump up at you and grab your clothes.
Although it may seem harmless, it's in the best interest of both basenji
and human to not allow this kind of behavior.
Basenjis as puppies learn what is called "bite inhibition."
During the first few weeks of life, puppies are exploring their world and
one of their discoveries is the joy of biting. Their first victim is their
littermates. However, littermates bite back! And the puppy quickly learns
that biting hurts. However, if a puppy is weaned prior to learning this
very important lesson, it will present much more of a challenge to
correct.
The first technique to teach your basenji not to play bite is to yelp
when the teeth hit your skin. The basenji will look startled, and then
likely will begin licking your hand. If so, the correction has been
effective.
The second technique is to suddenly ignore and walk away from your
basenji when those teeth hit your skin. Basenjis hate to be ignored and
the sudden ending of their playtime will make a huge impression on them.
The third technique is to replace your hand with a toy. This is
especially effective when your basenji is a puppy and prone to chew on
most anything!
It may take many times of working through this for your basenji to
correct the behavior. It is very important to be consistent and firm - or
the basenji will not absorb the message that biting is not acceptable.
One thing to keep in mind is that basenjis do tend to be more dog
aggressive than other breeds and even a well socialized basenji may not
take a fancy to every dog he meets.
If you are seeking advice on
introducing
a new basenji to resident dogs please refer to that article. We are
going to discuss ways to socialize your basenji around other dogs at
parks, during neighborhood walks, etc.
Usually when a dog is poorly socialized with other dogs it stems
from fear and inexperience or lack of exposure. The idea is to slowly
introduce your basenji to other dogs while at the same time making sure
that all interactions with other dogs are positive ones.
▪
Don't expect too much too soon. Unrealistic expectations are unfair
to both you and your basenji.
▪
Start with a very controlled environment. Don't take your basenji to
a park or area where other dogs may be off lead and able to approach your
dog. Pet stores like Petsmart or PetCo are great because all dogs are on
leash at all times. In these environments you can control how much
interaction or exposure your basenji has with other dogs.
▪
Attach a short leash to your dog and make sure to fill your pocket
with plenty of his favorite bite-sized treats. Dried liver or bits of hot
dogs or cheese work well.
▪
The idea is to get your basenji used to being out among other dogs
without him displaying fear or aggression. He doesn't have to meet and
greet dogs but he shouldn't fall apart at the sight of them either. Keep
him close to your side but on a fairly loose leash. If you are nervous or
anxious, he will pick up on this and may feel he needs to protect you when
other dogs approach.
▪
Walk toward the pet store and talk to him in a casual tone. If he
seems fearful upon seeing another dog continue to talk to him in a calm,
casual tone. If he starts to lunge or display aggressive behaviors you can
firmly tell him, "no growl!" but keep walking. If you hesitate
or turn around he will read this as a validation of his fear or dislike.
Again, make sure he is close to your side and is in no danger of coming
into contact with the other dog. Talk to him calmly until the dog passes.
If he hesitates but then continues when you urge him, praise him highly
and give him a quick treat.
▪
Remember to CATCH HIM BEING GOOD! Positively reinforce any and all
good behaviors no matter how small. Use a lot of verbal praise and then
offer a treat once in awhile.
▪
Keep in mind that using a sympathetic tone of voice will only
reinforce his fear or aggression. If he hears sympathy in your voice he
will assume he is right to feel afraid. Keep the tone positive and casual.
"Oh, here comes another dog. No big deal. What a good boy. Look how
you walked right by him. Nothing to it. What a good boy you are!"
▪
Keep your first trip to the pet store short. Perhaps just let him
walk in, turn around and walk out (assuming that he has seen at least two
dogs on his trip). Take him home and spend some one-on-one time with him
and end the experience on a positive note.
▪
Gradually increase the length of your visits. If your dog is just a
bit nervous and unsure, you may be able to work up to longer visits rather
quickly. If you have a dog that is overly anxious, you may have to slow
the pace down and take several short trips to the store before increasing
the duration. Eventually you will want to be able to walk up and down the
aisles of the pet store and let him grow increasingly comfortable in the
company of other dogs. Continue to reward him with bits of treats and
verbal praise.
▪
Every walk is a learning experience! These same rules apply for
walks around your neighborhood, at parks, etc. Bring treats along and
remember to catch him being good! Let him know how much you approve of him
when he walks by a dog without cowering or lunging.
▪
Obedience training also proves to be invaluable in these cases,
especially with a dog that is more fearful or aggressive acting than most.
It may take a lot of practice on you and your basenji's parts, but
teaching him a reliable heel will work wonders for his confidence as well
as yours! A dog who has been through a few obedience courses can also be
taught to do a "sit" or "down" when another dog
approaches. If you see another dog approaching you while on a walk, you
can move off the sidewalk and put your basenji in a "sit" or
"down" until the other dog passes. Again, praise him lavishly.
▪
You may want to consider a harness or Gentle Leader while walking
your dog. This will give you more control but is very humane to a dog that
may get anxious and pull or lunge. If you feel you have more control of
you dog, you will have more confidence and be more relaxed and your
basenji will pick up on this.
Take things slowly. Don't get discouraged if it seems as if there is
little or no progress being made. In the beginning, you will have good
days and bad days. Be consistent and one day you will notice that you are
having far more good days than bad. The key is staying relaxed and calm,
projecting this attitude to your basenji, and always catch him being good.
Praise, praise, praise!
Basenjis are very curious little creatures and most of them
generally like to inspect any newcomer into the home. Yes, some basenjis
tend to be aloof but, there is a difference between being aloof and being
frightened and unsure around people. If a basenji is not well socialized
with people, this issue needs to be addressed for your peace of mind as
well as your basenji's.
▪ Don't overwhelm your basenji. Start by introducing him to one person
or new situation at a time.
▪ Remember the power of food! With most dogs, food makes friends.
▪ Walk your basenji around a populated park or a pet store. Keep him
on leash and talk to him as he passes people. Don't let anyone approach
him or talk to him, simply let him get used to being among them.
▪ Next, choose a place where your dog feels comfortable. For some
people this may be the home but other basenjis may feel protective of
their home and be more nervous when a person enters it. In this case,
choose a park or a neighbor's yard.
▪ While you sit with your basenji (on a loose leash if you are out in
public), have a friend approach you. Your friend should not look at or
acknowledge the basenji. Greet your friend in a normal, casual manner. If
you are petting your basenji, continue to stroke him as you talk to your
friend. If you feel your basenji tense up, growl or try to back away try
to hold him close to you but continue to talk. If you're sitting on a
couch or park bench you can have your friend sit next to you with your
basenji on your other side. Remember to verbally praise your dog while he
sits there (even if he seems nervous). You can even pause to give him a
bite of his favorite treat now and then.
▪ Depending on how your dog reacts, you may need to end your session
here. Bid your friend goodbye after a minute or two and have them leave.
Praise your dog and give him a treat.
▪ When your basenji seems to be a bit more comfortable with this, you
can have your friend begin to acknowledge him. There should be no contact
the first time. Have your friend approach, sit down and begin to talk.
Next, have your friend talk to your basenji. Lavish compliments work.
Basenjis love to hear how beautiful they are! Have your friend say
something like, "What a handsome boy you are! What a good boy. Max is
so sweet…" Continue to praise and reward your dog.
▪ Your friend should come bearing gifts for the next visit. After
approaching you and initially ignoring the basenji (eventually all
basenjis hate to be ignored and their vanity and curiosity get the best of
them!), they can offer your dog a few kind words and compliments. Next,
have your friend offer a treat to your basenji by offering it palm up.
Food makes fast friends.
▪ Not all dogs will have to go through all these steps. If your
basenji seems to do pretty well when your friend approaches the first
time, you may want to have your friend start offering food fairly quickly.
▪ Eventually you will want to start taking your basenji to public
places like neighborhood ballparks, pet stores, etc. See if you can get
different people to approach your basenji and offer him a treat. Praise
your basenji when he accepts it. If people want to pet your basenji, make
sure they always approach him with hand held palm up. They can let your
basenji smell them and then reach down and scratch him under the chin.
Most dogs don't like people leaning over them and reaching their hands
behind their line of vision to pat their heads. The point of these
exercises is to show your basenji that people don't have to be feared and
that people will treat him kindly.
▪ No matter how well socialized some dogs are with people they may
still need to be ignored by guests entering your home. This is OK. There
are lots of happy, well-adjusted basenjis that just need to meet people in
their own time and on their own terms. If you have a basenji that seems to
be more aloof, have your guests come in, sit down and chat and go about
their business. In time, the basenji will approach, as the urge to
investigate is usually much stronger than the urge to ignore.
▪ Getting involved in classes and activities with your basenji is
another excellent way to boost his confidence (and yours!). Enroll in an
obedience class. You can also take beginner's agility or try lure
coursing. You don't have to participate competitively in these sports. The
idea is to get involved with your basenji and get him out with other
people and dogs, expose him to different things and show him how fun it
can all be. These activities can be very enjoyable and rewarding for both
of you. His confidence will increase and you will see a big improvement
with regards to how he meets new people.
Basenjis are curious and playful by nature. A basenji that is afraid of
people, whether they are guests in his home or strangers on the street, is
not as confident and well adjusted as he should be. Socialization is very
crucial to the happiness and well being of your basenji.
When a dog gets possessive over objects it is for one of two reasons.
Either the item that the dog is guarding is very important to the dog, or
the dog is asserting and maintaining its leader status. When your Basenji
is exhibiting these behaviors it is of utmost importance to seek guidance
in working with this problem. We want to try to stop the problem before it
escalates, especially regarding biting someone.
Guarding issues can often arise when a new dog has come into the
household. Especially with shelter or re-homed dogs. At this stressful
time the basics in life are of the highest priority to that dog. These
all-important things are food, resting spaces, humans (or attention) and
even toys. The things that a dog protects depend on the personality of
that particular dog and what that dog holds very dear, or is in fear of
loosing. He will sometimes guard one of these things so much so, that he
will protect them, even from a dog or person that he normally would not do
this to. The level and severity at which the item is guarded can
definitely range from minor to severe, but whatever the severity, it is
imperative to ask for assistance in working with this problem.
As well, families with dogs already in the home also have to contend
with those dogs becoming stressed and worried about possibly loosing some
of their precious things too. So the very first thing that needs to be
done is to remove all objects that could be fought over. Remove all toys,
and feed the dogs separately. Give attention separately from other dogs,
taking care to not let them see this going on. Try to keep the balance of
giving your own dog plenty of attention while remembering that your new
Basenji is worried about being abandoned yet again and may find security
in staying close to a particular family member. Keep a leash attached to
your new dog while she is with you. This is an all-important technique
because it allows you to have control over her without getting too close.
For example if she is guarding a space from you, it is easier to take the
end of the leash, turn and walk slowly, but resolutely with it until she
is away from that area. For all of these guarding behaviors it will be
very important, and helpful to your counselor if you try to learn or
notice the patterns, movement, or activities that incite the guarding
behavior. For example if the stress of your Basenji increases at meal
times because other dogs are around, but decreases when they are put away.
Or if a particular family member or movement of your body, say over the
dog and into its space sets off this pattern.
Following are some ideas of ways to begin working on a guarding problem
until you can get in contact with a counselor and increase or change the
program that the counselor will personalize for your dog's needs and
particular problem:
Food Guarding v Do not let the dog have free access to food v Make sure
all the family members are aware of the problem v Feed the dog throughout
the day, or evening from you - in severe cases of guarding, do not feed
from your hand rather have a family member hold the dog back from you,
only a couple of feet. Put a small amount into your palm, close it, and
let it remain there for a few seconds to gather your smell. Let the dog
see you place the food on the floor, stand up straight, inches from the
food and allow the family member to let the dog to the food while you
remain standing. Turn your back to the dog and increase your distance if
you're worried about her growling at you. But decide on your distance and
body position before you do this exercise. Also make sure the family
member holding the leash is strong enough to keep the dog from getting the
food until you are ready for them to. Also have this person completely
ignore the dog and only act as a kind of post to control the dog's
position. Do this at different locations in the home, this is very
important. And the most important part of this exercise is to let your new
Basenji see and learn your emotions and body language. Talk to her
throughout the exercise to help her learn your voice and how it is paired
with body language. To dogs this is very important - their only means of
communication. If the dog is behaved on the leash smile at her, praise her
quietly the whole time, unless she begins to pull, then frown (even in an
exaggerated way) and continue without paying a bit of attention to her,
once she is behaved again return to praise and happy faces. Do this
consistently and with all behaviors and she will begin to be able to read
your body and facial features as well as your voice to understand when she
is disappointing and when she is a good girl. Talk to her quietly while
she eats too. The next steps need to be taken with a counselor who can
help you by getting to know you and your Basenji.
Toy Guarding v The above can be done for toy guarding with a few minor
changes v Again, do not allow there to be toys laying about loose in the
home v When it is time for the dog to play freely with a toy or chew
(without any other dogs around) take out the designated toy while a family
member holds the dog back with its leash. Hold the toy allowing it to
gather your scent and then place it on the floor. Follow the directions
above and allow the leash holder to let your Basenji see you do this and
then get the toy on your command. You may want to sit on a chair nearby so
you can relax but be nearby while your Basenji has free play. The leash
can be dropped at this time. Remember to smile and praise her when she is
acting proper and frown and ignore improper behavior. If the behavior
cannot be ignored because of the severity, or if it continues, then use
the leash to walk away calmly, but resolutely from the area. Perhaps even
putting the dog in a room or crate for a short while. In this situation,
or when you are ready to stop free playtime, take the leash as instructed
above and move her from the toy. Try to set up doing this at a moment when
you will be most successful, like when she has tired of the toy and is
ignoring it, especially if she moves away from it. Take the toy only when
she is a good distance away and someone has control of her, but let her
see you take it and have a treat ready to give her, especially if she does
not protest your taking the toy. If she does protest taking the toy, have
the person holding the leash take her to another room for two minutes,
ignoring her the whole time. Then enter the room with the treat, talk to
her sweetly and give her the treat for some other good behavior, like not
pulling on the leash, or doing a sit if she knows this command. Give her
lots of praise for this good dead and end on a good note, always.
People or Place Guarding vs. For People Guarding when the dog does this
take the leash and gently, but resolutely move the dog from in front of
the person she is guarding to behind them. The person being guarded needs
to do this. Basically you are removing the dog from being in the middle to
being at the end of the line, behind the guarded person. If the Basenji is
guarding a person from another person then have a tie up available behind
the person being guarded. Tie up the dog so it cannot get past you and go
to greet and talk to the other person for a few minutes. To continue this
treatment, seek the aid of a counselor. v For Place Guarding if the dog is
guarding a spot from you and keeping you from getting to it, gently get a
hold of the end of the leash and move the dog from this position.
Depending on how seriously the dog is guarding, for severe cases you may
want to leave a long line, like an eight to ten foot rope so you can get
to the end of it without threatening the dog. Tie the dog up where it can
see you get in that spot and do not let her off until she settles. Then
praise her and untie the line. While pulling the dog away from the spot,
the moment the dog is getting down or off that area tell it the command
you will use for that action, such as 'off', or 'down'. (Remember that in
basic training you will also be using a lie 'down' command and cannot use
the same word.) By doing this you are teaching your dog what you want it
to do by showing it and telling it at the exact moment rather than
emitting a word it has no idea what to do for, and then 'making' the dog
do the action. v For Place Guarding if the dog is guarding a spot from
someone other than you, or another dog, do the same by removing the dog
from the place. If there is another dog DO NOT do this while the other dog
can get to her. Secure the non-guarding dog using the leash it is
dragging, then remove the dog that is guarding from the spot. This action
only requires teaching the dog that this is not acceptable, so put the dog
in a place it does not like, or a tie up for two minutes, while frowning
and talking to the dog to let her know you are displeased. Yelling is not
necessary; dogs have great hearing and are wonderful at learning body
language. The stiffness of your body, the expression on your face and your
voice tone will all be learned in intricate detail by your dog. To
continue these treatments seek the aid of a counselor. |
